Services › Sliding Shower Doors
Replacing a tired bypass door is usually a half-day job.
A bypass door is the practical choice when a swinging door would hit the vanity, the toilet, or the person standing at the sink. The catch is that cheap sliders rattle, jump the track, and leak at the meeting stile. Most of the complaints we hear are about builder-grade doors that were installed with the bottom rail set on an unlevel curb.
Our sliders use a full-length top rail anchored into studs, ball-bearing rollers instead of plastic wheels, and a meeting stile with a real vinyl seal. On a frameless bypass we use 3/8 inch glass with a discreet top rail and floor guide so it reads almost like a fixed panel. On framed sliders we keep the profile narrow, because a wide aluminum frame in a small San Diego bathroom eats the whole room.
Three ways to do a slider, and the price gap between them is real.
Aluminum frame around each panel with a bottom track. Cheapest, most forgiving of an out-of-level curb, and the right answer on rentals and tight budgets.
Framed glass with a header rail and no bottom track, or a thin perimeter with exposed rollers. Middle ground on looks and cost.
3/8 inch glass, top rail only, floor guide instead of a track. Cleanest look, needs a solid header and a level opening.
| Style | Typical Range |
|---|---|
| Framed bypass, standard size | $650 - $1,200 |
| Semi-frameless bypass | $1,100 - $1,900 |
| Frameless bypass with top rail | $1,700 - $3,100 |
| Roller and track rebuild on existing door | $140 - $320 |
If your existing glass is good and only the rolling hardware is tired, a rebuild is a fraction of a new door.
We template, cut, and hang the glass ourselves. No subcontracted crew, no finger-pointing when a hinge line is off by an eighth of an inch.
You get the panel sizes, glass thickness, hardware finish, and total price in writing. Nothing on the invoice that was not in the quote.
Coastal humidity, hard water, and older tract-home framing all change what we specify. We pick glass and coatings that survive here.
Drop cloths down, old glass out in one piece, silicone lines wiped, and the debris leaves with us.
We confirm the curb is level, the header is solid, and the jamb walls are plumb. Fixing those is part of the job, not an extra.
The top rail gets anchored into studs or blocking, not just drywall anchors.
Panels hang, rollers adjust, and the meeting stile gets set so the seal actually touches.
Jamb seals and bottom sweep go on, then we run the shower and watch for water past the stile.
Heavy 3/8 and 1/2 inch frameless glass, templated on site and installed with hardware that actually lines up.
Leaking doors, sagging hinges, broken rollers, and glass that jumps the track. Usually fixed in one visit.
Cracked, chipped, etched, or fogged glass swapped for new tempered panels using your existing hardware.
A slider rebuild is often cheaper than a new door. Ask us which one you need.
Free — no obligations